Skip to main content

One Michelin Star, London

Reviewed by Justine Murphy, CEO of mymuybueno – March 2017

Hedone was opened in 2011 by Mikael Jonsson, a Swedish-born former lawyer, who went from food blogging to opening Hedone – his first restaurant. Mikael is the Head Chef and the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. The content of his surprise menus is governed entirely by which ingredients are in their prime. Mikael was present for lunch service upon my visit. He greeted me personally and also confirmed my crab allergy.

I sat at the bar so I could oversee the kitchen, which was lovely. Because everything is based on the best and freshest ingredients, there is no set menu, so I chose the ten-course option.

Cornetto – Seared Tuna, Veal Jelly, Lemon Mayonnaise and Fried Caper Powder. The cone was made from pea powder and natural starch. These flavours played on my palate to recreate those of a Nicoise Salad.

Yellow Pepper Crisp, topped with Foie Gras, Pickled Red Pepper, and a Ham Jelly. This was good, and the flavours worked.

‘Fish and Chips’ – Fillet of Monk Fish in Starch Potato, Chardonnay Vinegar and Homemade Tartare Sauce. This was excellent and a far better version than the one I had at Pollen Street Social. The fish was from Dorset and was perfectly cooked. The shell of potato with a hint of salt and vinegar made this a total winner.

Rock Oyster, Cucumber Ice Cream, Granny Smith Emulsion, Nasturtium Jelly. This was clean, crisp, fresh, salty and simply beautiful. Clean ingredients that truly complemented each other.

clean, crisp, fresh, salty and simply beautiful

Venison Tartare, Potato Ice Cream, Osetra Caviar. This was simplicity refined. The potato ice cream worked, and caviar added a different dimension. It was salty and meaty and very, very tasty.

White and Brown Sourdough with French Butter. This was good but I had far higher expectations of what the bread would be like here, as Mikael had trained with legendary French baker Alex Croquet and perfected his techniques. The Ledbury had raised the bar with theirs and this one didn’t scream out to me much at all – nice, but very standard.

Scallops in Citrus Vinegar. The scallops were beautiful, opened in plain sight, cut in half and cooked live, on just one side, the other side is still twitching when served. Sweet, succulent, beautiful and so delicate. I don’t think I have ever enjoyed a scallop so much before. These had been sourced from the Isle of Mull in Scotland. The reason they are cooked live is that Mikael believes that when cooked dead, they lose their sweetness and become rubbery. Cooking them when freshly opened and live retains the sweet and tender scallop, and indeed I now have to agree. The citrus vinegar was made using Buddha’s hand, which resembles a lemon with fingers if you have never seen one. The zest is very fragrant and was used here, as there is very little juice.

Cooking them when freshly opened and live retains the sweet and tender scallop

Provence Asparagus, Pistachio Mayonnaise, Primrose and Avocado. This dish featured large and outstanding asparagus from Pertuis in Provence (which, due to its soil, produces some pretty incredible asparagus). This was so sweet, and it was also fat, yet not tough. The quality here is exceptional. Asparagus like this comes in around thirty pounds a kilo, and you get what you pay for, this was the crème de la crème of asparagus for sure. This was such a joy to eat. The pistachio mayo, avocado, nasturtium, and asparagus foam made this my absolute favourite dish without doubt.

the crème de la crème of asparagus for sure

Langoustine in Coconut Foam, Cauliflower Chutney with Kafir Lime Leaves. The coconut foam was beautiful and light, there was also a lobster coral foam, and the way they were plated made it look like a fried egg with the white and yellow. I have never experienced this pairing of ingredients before – they were delicate and just genius. The techniques were executed very well, and the final result was a very good dish. The sweet, beautiful langoustine was the star of the plate.

 

Fillet of Dover Sole on Plankton Sauce and Brussel Stock with Sprout Leaves. This was okay, probably the weakest dish.

Veal Sweetbread, Bitter Leaves, Truffle Dressing. A rich sweetbread, with amazingly good freshly-shaved black truffle, a truffle vinegar, truffle nuggets and sharp bitter leaves. A good dish.

Rack of Lamb, Artichokes, Komatsuna Leaf, Lamb Jus. The only piece of meat on the menu, and boy was it good. Roasted rack of lamb, lamb jus, roasted lamb belly, artichoke purée, roasted artichoke, shaved artichoke, with Komatsuna, a leafy mustard spinach, which was delicious. The crispy fat on the perfectly cooked lamb was so very good and the rich jus brought a sharp vinegar tone, which cut through that fattiness. Seriously delicious, and if it wasn’t for the asparagus this would have been my number one.

Komatsuna, a leafy mustard spinach, which was delicious

Rhubarb Sorbet, Sorrel Sauce, Rose Meringue, Yoghurt Semifreddo. This was brilliant – the yoghurt semifreddo was amazingly good and just delicious. The sharpness of the rhubarb was complemented with the rose meringue, and the sorrel juice was a revelation. The whole dish was bright and clean and fresh, and my palate was officially cleansed.

sorrel juice was a revelation

Mille-feuille, Madagasgar Vanilla Cream, Bourbon Ice Cream, Aged Balsamic. A super rustic flaky puff pastry made in-house and filled with an outstanding crème pâtissèrie. It was finished with a generous drizzling of an eight-year old balsamic, what a treat this was.

Petit Fours – Peach and Rose, Pistachio and Passionfruit Marshmallows, Dark Chocolate and Cinnamon. Once again, as full as ever, but a taste of each confirmed how lovely they were.

Wine: Not today

Favourite Dish:  Provence Asparagus, Pistachio Mayonnaise, Primrose and Avocado.

Napkin Fold: Yes

Menu to take home: N/A

Meal for two, including drinks and service: £400.

Final Thought: This was a very good meal with plenty of delicious ingredients in abundance, all clearly handled with care, respect and love. The dishes were clean, refined and simple,not overcomplicated in any way, and truly allowed the ingredients to speak for themselves.

Hedone
Address:  
301-303, Chiswick High Road, London, W4 4HH
Telephone: +44 (0) 208 747 0377
Hours:  Friday & Saturday Lunch: 12pm – 2pm Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday 6.30pm – 9.30pm
Website: www.hedonerestaurant.co.uk