Reviewed by Justine Murphy, CEO of mymuybueno – March 2017
The Ledbury is located on Ledbury Road in Notting Hill, London and holds two Michelin stars. It has been featured in San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants and its Head Chef, Brett Graham, has been favourably received by critics. The Restaurant opened in 2005 when it was awarded its first star, and it received its second star in 2010. British produce and wild English game is the focus. Greg Austin was the Head Chef on the day of my visit.
I came for lunch service and opted of course for the tasting menu. There was a lovely atmosphere in a crisp, clean, fresh room with attentive and smooth service visible all round.
Whipped Mousse of Smoked Mussels and Laverbread Crisp, topped with Apple Pearls. This was delicious.
Guinea Fowl and Foie Parfait Puff with Mead Jelly. The creamy liquid centre erupted in my mouth. Rich, yet light, and the acidic sweetness from the jelly was heavenly.
The first course came swiftly. Chantilly of Oyster, Tartare of Sea Bream and Frozen English Wasabi. This was just beautiful. A fresh, salty, delicious taste of the sea, with the subtle hint of warmth from the wasabi contrasting with the icy coolness on my palate.
White Beetroot Baked in Clay, Caviar Salt and Smoked Eel. This was white baked beetroot that had been peeled and thinly sliced. It was crunchy and sweet. The caviar on top hails from the first ever British caviar farm in Exmoor National Park, North Devon – and it was incredible. There was caviar salt too, which was so good (I must get some). It enhanced the whole dish and elevated the smoked eel, which sat underneath the beetroot on a bed of Chantilly cream, fennel and celery. The crumbs of rye bread and dried sturgeon which flecked the top of the dish further served to enhance everything so perfectly. An absolutely awesome plate of food.
Roast Scallop, Blood Orange and Pine Nuts. This was a bitter/sweet, balanced dish featuring a beautiful Orkney scallop with the taste of pine nuts running through each bite. A fish stock reduction worked well with the blood orange, and the addition of fennel seeds provided a touch of anise.
Agen Prune, Earl Grey Tea and Lardo. The wine pairing was perfect for this next dish, as it was a strong, full-bodied red which cut through the richness of the dish. The Earl Grey Tea-soaked agen prune was stuffed with pork, chives and shallots, piped with mushroom consommé and truffle, with a foie gras and Earl Grey sauce, and a dot of aged balsamic lining the plate too.
Whipped Buttermilk, Rhubarb and Lemon Balm. Coconut and marshmallow ice cream was whipped through the buttermilk, the Yorkshire rhubarb had been perfectly cooked, and its poaching liquor was drizzled over the top with olive oil. Lemon balm gel and orange powder also adorned the plate, and this was all accompanied by a little perfect donut rolled in blackcurrant sugar. Splendid.
Petit Fours of Eucalyptus Chocolate and a Juniper Caramel Stick. By this stage I was so full but tasted both, and of course they were astoundingly good.
Wine:
Gruner Veltliner, Lossterrassen, Weingut Stadt Krems, Kremstal, Austria, 2016
Assyrtiko, Estate Argyros, Santorini, Greece, 2015
Marsanne, 1927 Vines, Tahbilk, Nagambie Lakes, Australia 2007
Vespaiolo, Vignasilan, Contra Soarda, Veneto, Italy, 2012
Cotes du Rhone, Chateau des Tours, Rhone, France 2012
Saumur – Champigny, La Folie, Chateau Yvonne, Loire, France, 2014
Riversaltes Ambre, Consolation, Tramontane, Roussillon, France 1985
Favourite Dish: Warm Pheasant Egg, Celeriac, Arbois, Dried Ham and Truffle.
Napkin Fold: Yes
Menu to take home: Yes
Meal for two, including drinks and service: £400
Final Thought: The attention to the ingredients, the knowledge about them, and the sourcing of all of them from the UK is just mind-blowing and wonderful. The care and respect for each is abundantly clear. So much love. The service was slick and the staff informative, the atmosphere smart yet unpretentious, and the whole menu simple blew me away. Two stars surely will become three soon enough. Flawless. I will be back.
The Ledbury
Address: 127 Ledbury Road, Notting Hill, London W11 2AQ
Telephone: + 44 (0) 20 7792 9090
Hours: Wednesday – Sunday Lunch: 12pm – 2pm Monday – Sunday Dinner: 6.30pm – 9.45pm
Website: www.theledbury.com
