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One Michelin Star, London

Reviewed by Justine Murphy, CEO of mymuybueno – February 2016

The food at Murano is a reflection of Angela Hartnett’s upbringing, cooking alongside her Italian grandmother and aunts. The menu features seasonal, modern Italian dishes using the best of British and European produce in clear and approachable ways. There’s a deliberately informal atmosphere in the restaurant, with an emphasis on ‘fun’ rather than ‘fine’ dining. This approach extends to the menu, which is divided into five sections and allows the diner to choose any number of dishes in the order they choose. Murano is also the holder of four AA Rosettes.

I selected four options, as I wanted to focus on sampling as many Italian savoury dishes as possible. I had just one glass of red and one glass of white white to accompany my meal as I had an early start the next day (learning to make pasta with Angela Hartnett herself) so I needed a clear head. 

First came an Amuse Bouche of Truffle Arancini. These were delicious rice balls, with the perfect balance of truffle, coated in a light, salty breadcrumb, which had been deep-fried. A delight.

Next to arrive was a platter of some beautifully fresh Focaccia, crispy Grissini, slices of Salami, Prosciutto, a very good Olive Oil and a serving of Parmesan Crisps. It was a nice touch and really transported my palate to Italy, but in a relaxed and unpretentious manner.

It was a nice touch and really transport your palate to Italy, but in a relaxed and unpretentious manner.

Oxtail Tortellini, Pickled Baby Onion, Tardivo, Ricotta Salata. This was divine, with heavenly thin tortellini and each mouthful was exquisite. The pairing of the pickled baby onion and the tardivo brought the right amount of bitter sharpness to the richness of the oxtail and ricotta.

Parmesan Gnocchi, Chanterelles, Walnut Pesto, Chilli. I love gnocchi, and this was very good. I had high expectations and it delivered. The walnut pesto was beautiful, and the whole dish had the right combination of flavours that worked in harmony with one another. The chilli did not compete, and the delicate chanterelles simply lifted the whole dish to an earthy comforting bowl of heaven. 

The delicate chanterelles simply lifted the whole dish to an earthy comforting bowl of heaven.

Turbot, Langoustines, Confit Potato, Red Onion, Almond. (There was a supplement for this dish.)  A good-sized piece of turbot with sweet langoustines, this was a great dish and held itself well with the onion and almond.
Cumbrian Loin of Venison, Celeriac, Wild Mushrooms, Pear, Toasted Almonds, Truffle. This was a deliciously rare portion of venison, with a crisp piece of pear, which brought an element of fresh sweetness to a wintery dish. It had similar notes to the previous dishes, being both earthy and nutty.
I was so full I could not opt for a dessert on this occasion. I had a very pleasant evening, relaxed with charming and informative service and comforting dishes that really hit the spot.
No food photos sadly, as my DSLR was not working, and the images from my phone are not good enough to use here, as the lighting was not sufficient.

Wine:
Pinot Noir Trocken, Shelter Winer, 2013
Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Chardonnay, Alessandro Fanti, 2013
Favourite Dish: Parmesan Gnocchi, Chanterelles, Walnut Pesto, Chilli.
Napkin Fold: Yes.
Menu to take home: No.
Meal for two, including wine, water and service: £300.
Final Thought: Italian heaven, great dining, beautiful flavours, perfect service; all in all, sublime and good value.

Murano
Address: Queen St, Mayfair, London W1J 5PP
Telephone: + 44 (0) 20 7495 1127
Hours: Monday – Saturday (including bank holidays)
Lunch: 12pm – 3pm
Dinner: 6.30pm – 11.00pm
Website: http://www.muranolondon.com